Pomellato promuove un'etica del design non convenzionale

di EMILY IRIS DEGN

Milanese jewelry Pomellato’s design philosophy is at the center of a new release.

CEO Sabina Belli is joined by creative director Vincenzo Castaldo and gem master Stefano Cortecci for a conversation on the crafts and values that set it apart from peers. The spot brings to light Pomellato’s “Free Gems” mantra, which allows the brand to cherish individuality, embrace of color and break away from convention.

Bucking convention

Ms. Belli, Mr. Castaldo and Mr. Cortecci introduce the “Pomellato e le pietre libere” concept, or in English, “Pomellato and the free stones,” in a new video.

The brand’s translation, “Free Gems,” is based on the idea of uplifting uniqueness and, as the name hints at, independence. According to the CEO, this has been the brand’s mission since its inception in 1967, created by Italian goldsmith Pino Rabolini.

The founder was known to take on the traditionally conservative jewelry industry with a fashion-forward approach and “revolutionary” takes on design.

In the video, Pomellato shows how its modern artisans continue this legacy.

Specific techniques are delved into, such as microfusion or lost-wax casting, which has been used since 3,500 B.C. The hundreds of hours of work it takes to bring collections to life are also discussed.

The move could reaffirm its identity as an artisan house. Strategies like this are proving key as consumers show enthusiasm for heritage know-how and shows of design talent.

Putting craftsmanship at the front can draw in this growing population of customers, and help a brand justify how much offerings cost. The action could prove critical as shoppers increasingly question and investigate the high-price points that define the luxury sector (see story).

In Pomellato’s case, the way it honors the “individual beauty” of gemstones throughout the making of its jewelry not only reveals it as an artisan-powered company but also gets at the nature of its approach.

The label does not just make things by hand; based on “Free Gems,” it does so intentionally.

This point is driven home through scenes of Pomellato workers cutting, setting and casting various styles.

Their discretion in whether or not to leave the stones in a rough form is additionally detailed. Pomellato calls this a rebellion against “uniformity.”

Uncut gems

The Nudo collection, a vibrant line the house pushed throughout 2023 via tech-enabled campaigns (see story) and immersive pop-ups (see story), is an example of these uncut gems.

Pieces from the array appear throughout the philosophical video and on Pomellato’s social media posts bringing attention to the initiative. In line with past efforts (see story), the brand has also published visuals of a celebrity decked out in the colorful rings, earrings and necklaces from the selection.

“Nudo defines liberty in the way that the gemstone is devoid of settings and prongs,” said Mr. Castaldo, in a statement posted to social media.

“Thanks to our special cut and setting technique, we enhance the individuality of the gem,” he said. “Unconstrained, the light plays with the transparency and the irregularities of the 57 facets; it is almost like a metaphor that speaks of women’s freedom as an indispensable value.”

The Sabbia collection is likewise singled out for its embodiment of the “Free Gems” ethos.

Distinctive to the house, the style entails an organically shaped pavé setting that creates a shimmering effect with diamonds. Pomellato compares it to “reflections of sunlight on a sandy beach.”

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For more on colored gemstone jewelry, including from Pomellato, read Crown jewels in the latest issue of Luxury Portfolio magazine.